Dining Review: Telefèric Barcelona

When it comes to convivial group dining, perhaps no country celebrates that activity and has it quite as dialed in as Spain, where tapas reign supreme and anytime is prime for coming together over good food. It’s downright romantic, and that spirit is alive and well at the newest addition to Westfield UTC’s murderer’s row restaurant lineup, Telefèric Barcelona.

A Spanish sensation brought to the States a decade ago by sibling founders Maria Padrosa and Xavi Padrosa, Telefèric Barcelona presents an authentic taste of its namesake locale amid stylish environs. Jade-tiled columns accentuate a dining room replete with earth tones and a well-stocked central bar, as well as an airy patio adorned with woven pendant light fixtures and flora on all sides. (The latter is perfect for enjoying conversation along with discounted bites and sips during happy hour, which takes place from 3 to 6pm, Monday through Thursday.)

The success of Telefèric Barcelona — which has grown to include eight Golden State locations — is based on the kitchen’s ability to stay true to Spanish tradition while incorporating numerous next-level twists. Ditto a bar program boasting a vast array of house cocktails (year-round and seasonal) that go beyond the standard liquor cart.

“Fancy a Carrot?” combines fig leaf tequila with amontillado sherry and a carrot cordial, while “Red Velvet” is all rojo with plum-infused rye, cherry liqueur, and red vermouth. Then there’s the “Al-Andalus Sour,” which takes its inspiration from…a fromage plate? Idiazábel cheese-washed pisco and smoky mezcal are shaken together with a quince cordial, mimicking that Basque dairy-born delicacy’s typical pairing with membrillo paste.

Telefèric Barcelona also features a trio of gin-and-tonics (“Ibiza” with butterfly pea tea-infused gin, “Catalan” with lemon and juniper, and “Galacian” with cardamom), five house sangrias, and a selection of more than 100 Spanish wines covering every shade of the viticultural spectrum.  

Any of the above pair nicely with selections from a lengthy (but not overwhelming) menu that’s heavy on tapas. Composed of staple Spanish ingredients such as chorizo, Manchego cheese, and acorn-fed Jamón Iberico aged for 38 months, those small plates can be tough to choose from, but reasonable pricing makes for a minimal amount of drama.

Among the restaurant’s most popular starters are classic ham croquetas with dueling textures of potato — a crispy, golden-brown exterior giving way to a soft, creamy center. (Crab croquettes topped with tuna sashimi are also available.) Patatas Bravas again do right by potatoes, dressing tender chunks in a sauce that starts sweet but finishes with a clean heat akin to North African harissa. And a silky potato cream condiment accompanies a dish of nicely charred octopus with an interior texture that’s substantial without being challenging.

Ahi tuna tacos in wonton shells (with caviar on request), halibut and scallop ceviche, and wagyu empanadas make for luxurious sharables, but one of the simplest of the tapas, toast topped with fresh tomato dressing and soft butter cut with chorizo fat, may be the very best — especially when topped with a slice of unctuous, melt-in-your-mouth Jamón Iberico, a sizable plate of which can be ordered for the table. 

While Telefèric Barcelona offers a handful of entrées (a 20-ounce wagyu ribeye, piri-piri chicken skewers, short rib and ham “Wellington” over gnocchi), salads, and a burrata bowl, the star attraction is a selection of half a dozen paellas studded with everything from lobster, shrimp, and scallops to pork belly, chicken, and steak. (There is also a veggie version.) 

Best indulged in by an entire table, each is served piping hot in its own two-handled pan and has far more to offer than the all-too-often overbearing flavor of saffron that is synonymous with this dish in the States. Instead, plump rice kernels are coated in a hyper-reduced brown stock lending bold Maillard notes of caramelization. Running a spoonful of rice and any protein through dollops of aioli decorating the dish takes the richness to delicious extremes.

With a clear, heartful ambition to show off the flair of its home country’s culinary heritage — and a proven ability to do just that — Telefèric Barcelona is a sterling addition to San Diego’s restaurant scene. It’s well suited for a date night or otherwise intimate affair, but best experienced en masse. telefericbarcelona.com

Service 4
Timeliness 4.5
Ambience 4.5
Culinary Innovation 3.5
Food Quality 4.5
Cocktail Program 4.5
Wine List 4
Value 4.5