Discover Downtown Los Angeles: A Scenic Train Journey from San Diego

For all the years I’ve lived in San Diego, I’ve thought about taking the train to L.A., but somehow it never happened. It seemed easier to drive, but in reality, there’s nothing easy about dealing with traffic on I-5 and nothing fun about paying for parking. I finally made a date with myself, bought a ticket, and boarded the sleek Amtrak Pacific Surfliner at San Diego’s Santa Fe Station. An attendant carried my bag up a flight of stairs to the business class section and I collapsed into a cozy window seat with lots of leg room and a great view. 

There were only about a dozen passengers onboard when we departed, but our numbers grew at stops in Old Town, Solana Beach, Oceanside, and points north. I’d planned to read during the trip, but I couldn’t take my eyes off the beautiful ocean views all the way up the coast. The conductor collected my ticket and an attendant offered tasty snacks. Both gentlemen were so kind that they reminded me of Mister Rogers. When the train stopped at Anaheim, the conductor shared some good news for families: There’s a free shuttle from the station to Disneyland and passengers qualify for a park discount. I made note of that because we’ll soon be traveling this way with young visitors.

We arrived on time at Union Station, an iconic landmark and the gateway to DTLA, the vibrant multicultural heart of downtown Los Angeles. Some folks board the bus to Dodger Stadium here, but most visitors fan out to world-class museums, galleries, performing arts venues, and a wide variety of ethnic restaurants spread across the area.  

I Ubered to the Conrad Los Angeles, which I’d chosen because it has a large, beautiful rooftop pool, it’s very near The Broad contemporary art museum, and it’s right across the street from the Walt Disney Concert Hall. Famously designed by architect Frank Gehry, this building’s stainless steel curves have made it recognizable around the world. In the past, I’ve taken advantage of the free self-guided tours here, but this time I was content to stand and stare in awe from across the street. The concert hall is one of four side-by-side theaters that constitute the Music Center. The others are the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion, the Mark Taper Forum, and the Ahmanson Theatre. It was at the Ahmanson that I noticed Clue will open on July 30 and run to August 25. This comedy, based on the 1985 Paramount movie and the classic Hasbro board game, is recommended for children ages 12 and up. 

My next stop was the Grammy Museum, a four-story venue that’s popular with music fans. This is the place for reliving Grammy acceptance speeches from Beyonce, Mary J. Blige, and other winners, and if you’re lucky, one of your favorite artists might drop in while you’re there and stay for Q&A in the museum’s theater. The On the Red Carpet exhibit takes visitors into the world of red carpet glitz. A display of 11 costumes worn by Taylor Swift was a big hit earlier this year, and the current exhibit features multi Grammy Award-winner Shakira. During the summer, Grand Hope Park near the Grammy Museum hosts movies under the stars. The Rooftop Cinema Club DTLA is another popular option. 

Back at the Conrad Los Angeles, I dined in San Laurel, where the menu of “Spain meets California” cuisine is from Chef José Andres, the founder of World Central Kitchen. Of the dishes I sampled, my favorite was the Fig Stracciatella salad, which included macerated figs, Marcona almonds, strawberries, and mustard frills. I enjoyed my meal, and noted that the hotel provides children’s menus for those who prefer simpler fare. In addition, I’m sure visitors of all ages will enjoy the Grand Central Market, a sprawling food emporium a short walk from the Conrad that has been a DTLA landmark since 1917. Here, I discovered vendors selling fresh produce and freshly made meals that reflect the diverse ethnic backgrounds of DTLA residents. Ramen? Sticky rice? Burritos? Pizza? Burgers? Bento boxes? Oysters? Yes to all and much more. The market is conveniently open daily from 8am to 9pm or later. 

Across the street from the market, the picturesque Angels Flight funicular enables passengers to avoid a steep uphill walk. A ticket for the 120-year-old railway costs $1. Next to the market, the Million Dollar Theater was one of the earliest and largest movie palaces in the world when it opened in 1917. Another fun spot in this area: The Last Bookstore is known for its huge size, creative displays, and generous amount of comfy seating.

There is a modest Italian American Museum and larger Chinese American Museum and Japanese American National Museum. I am always impressed that the JANM continues to get better and better, and I’ve enjoyed some great meals at nearby family restaurants in Little Tokyo. Just outside the DTLA area, the California Science Center was a hit with our three-generation family when we were there a few years ago. The permanent galleries are free to visit and do not require a reservation. Timed tickets are required for the IMAX theater and special exhibits. Access is easy via Uber or Metro.

I enjoyed discovering a few new places in L.A. and revisiting some old favorites, but honestly, my favorite part of this mini trip was taking the train. This issue of Ranch & Coast marks my 20th anniversary as travel editor, and I’m glad to be reminded that there are still many new happy travel experiences ahead of me. I look forward to sharing them with you.

Note: Since my sojourn, Amtrak has commenced track work in Del Mar, and services from Santa Fe Station and Old Town are limited on Sunday evenings, Monday mornings and evenings, and Tuesday mornings.