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Wonderful Wagyu


In Tokyo’s finest retail establishments, meat counters share space with high-end couture and other luxury items. Such is the quality of and regard for Wagyu beef, vibrant pink cuts adorned with incredibly concentrated marbling, wispy web-like veins of rich fat that, once introduced to the heat of a flattop, gently melt to ensure each bite is carnivorously sublime. Such unmatched succulence comes from introducing sake, beer, and regular massages to a livestock’s daily regimen. It’s an nth degree attention to detail that’s as rare as it is well done. Opportunities to sample Wagyu are hard to come by in the States, but Shimbashi Izakaya is flying this delicacy in from Miyazaki, Japan. Served as a grilled steak with matsutake mushrooms or lightly torched as part of Aburi Wagyu sushi, little more than a simple sprinkle of salt and pepper is all it takes to coax natural immaculacy from this sacred cow. (858.523.0479, www.shimbashiizakaya.com)    Brandon Hernández


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