We couldn't find that.
Let's go back home and try again.



For most foodies, nothing at Jsix was broken. So why fix Hotel Solamar’s gourmet farm-to-fork enclave? While there were some lovely elements, many of them didn’t jibe together. Throw in the fact it was upscaled to the stratosphere before the economy nosedived, and it was just too posh for suddenly casual chic San Diego. So, the entire restaurant has been revamped to include a logical assemblage of modern-day bells and whistles — warm woods, furniture in varying states of retro, a communal table, and even a craft cocktail-slinging barman in Nate Howell (don’t miss the New Jersey Farm with apple brandy, ginger syrup, and peach bitters). Fortunately, among all the flux, executive chef Christian Graves is sticking to food that transcends aesthetic. House-made charcuterie better than most throughout the county, a colorful rainbow beet terrine (an inventive take on this ubiquitous root veggie), crispy fried avocado, and fluffy Dungeness crab pancakes topped with airy Hollandaise and caviar would be worth the trip no matter the venue — and that’s just the starters. Spinach pasta straddling the tender-toothsome line tastes comforting dressed in braised rabbit ragu while roasted halibut set adrift in a sea of luscious oyster chowder is nothing short of transcendent. Graves doesn’t need new digs to attract a crowd — but they sure don’t hurt. (619.531.8744, jsixrestaurant.com)    Brandon Hernández



Leave a Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *