Dining Review: The Whaling Bar

This time of year, it’s easy to get caught up in parties, pageantry, and presents, but when it comes down to it, the holidays are about huddling with those we hold dear. Few things compare to the simple pleasure of convening with family, friends, and colleagues over spirited libations and indulgent cuisine. It’s the stuff lasting memories are made of, especially when an enduring backdrop is added to the equation. With cozy, classic charm, a top-shelf cocktail program, and a sharable-heavy menu of delights blending tradition and innovation, The Whaling Bar at the base of La Jolla’s iconic La Valencia Hotel fits the yuletide bill. 

In April, the beloved venue was revived after a ten-year hiatus, marking both a return and a return to form under the guidance of SDCM Restaurant Group (Kettner Exchange, Waverly, Camino Riviera) and Executive Chef Brian Redzikowski, who made it his mission to bring The Whaling Bar’s offerings up to speed with gastronomic trends and sensibilities while respecting the venue’s retro vibe. But he didn’t do it alone. He had help from another time-tested craftsman. 

In breathing new life into a storied watering hole, Beverage Director Eric Johnson (Sycamore Den, Home & Away, Juniper & Ivy) stretched his imagination beyond the parameters of standard tipples, adding depth of flavor care of house-infused spirits (avocado tequila, Earl Grey-infused gin, Parmesan fat-washed vodka) and next-level ingredients (ube, poblano chile, cream cheese) to deliver unique flavor profiles, a number of which are designed to celebrate seasonality.

Highlights of The Whaling Bar’s seasonal menu include “Fresh Leaves,” a sterling refresher combining gin, dry sherry, basil, and bergamot, the citrus flavor of which segues nicely into a juniper finish; and a “Black’s Beach Boulevardier,” with big rye, caramel, and chocolate character perfectly suited for cold-weather months. 

Despite being a mainstay, a take on the classic Gold Rush (honeyed whiskey sour) called “Gold Set” (chai tea-infused bourbon, blood orange amaro, honey, citrus) is like autumn in a glass, offering a yam-like bouquet and herbal palate punctuated by cinnamon. Try it with house-baked carrot-walnut bread — as much for the pairing as to moon over the adorable miniature whale butter sculpture it’s served alongside.

Starters include Osetra caviar served with buckwheat blini and traditional accompaniments, and whipped buttermilk ricotta spread out with divots catching bits of dill, tarragon, lava salt, and Aleppo pepper in pools of Tuscan olive oil. Running charred focaccia through that flavorful minefield is made even more enjoyable by the fact that each bite tastes a tiny bit different.

A trio of salads includes a multi-textured sweet-and-sour mash-up of crisp celery, dates, walnuts, and Pecorino cheese dressed in a vinaigrette. But the showstopper is a creamy, salty Caesar featuring modern gems from Redzikowski’s repertoire — three large golden-brown crouton cubes. Dubbed “Twinkies,” they are filled with a mixture of mascarpone, garlic, and olive oil. The salad’s generous serving size (three hearts of Romaine) makes it easy to split.

The rest of The Whaling Bar’s menu consists primarily of familiar indulgences elevated or reimagined to include unlikely or worldly ingredients. Duck meatballs are topped with melted mozzarella and served with red sauce, a lobster roll is served with a bisque-like shellfish broth à la the French dip, and a Whaling Bar classic, liver and onions, is presented anew as chicken-liver mousse with caramelized shallots and toasted brioche. 

Chinese street-food staple bao is taken in a new direction, packed with red wine-braised short rib, pickled red onions, and bold molten Stilton cheese that’s out of left field but makes the dish. Even chicken — an oft-discounted menu ubiquity — is given special treatment. Marinated in yogurt spiced with Turkish exotic urfa chili peppers, an airline breast (drumette attached) is delivered to the table incredibly juicy with hints of spice and smolder.

When it comes to dessert, there are two obvious choices, starting with signature nightcap, The Whaler, blending cognac, coffee liquor, Shanky’s Whip (caramel-vanilla Irish cream), and ice cream. Then there’s the mind-vexing, smile-inducing “Hamburger,” which arrives at the table looking like a savory treat but is in fact an Eskimo pie sandwiched between caramel-glazed, sesame-seeded vanilla cake “buns.” Green tea shortcake “pickles” and a faux slice of American cheese fashioned out of sweetened milk, agar agar, and gelatin drive home this clever illusion.

Reasons to experience the second coming of The Whaling Bar are plentiful, but bringing together those who matter to make memories that will last beyond December may be the best of them all. 858.551.3758, lavalencia.com/dining/the-whaling-bar

Service: 4.5
Timeliness: 4
Ambience: 4
Culinary Innovation: 4
Food Quality: 4.5
Cocktail Program: 4.5
Wine List: 4
Value: 4.5