Dining Review: Rustic Root

Want to dine like a denizen of Solana Beach? Then head for Rustic Root, because that’s where they’re all at these days. With beacon-like signage drawing the epicurious off Highway 101 and into its domestic-chic environs, this new arrival — a long-awaited spin-off of a decade-old Gaslamp Quarter concept — has gone from a source of local curiosity to a bona fide coastal municipality fave in less than a month.

The key to Rustic Root’s out-of-the-gate success is comfort. Yes, the restaurant celebrates American comfort food, cherry-picking wholesome, nostalgic dishes from the Southwest to the Northeast, but that term applies to just about every aspect of the restaurant. 

Servers are friendly versus rigid, inquisitive rather than explanatory. The eclectic interiors are stylish — rolling pins, muffin tins, plates, and platters are affixed to the steel-blue walls (and ceiling) augmented by hanging plants and abstract art installations — without slipping into over-the-top territory. Live music minces with the jovial roar of a full dining room of locals laughing and dishing, creating the type of lively atmosphere that’s a hallmark of a fun neighborhood spot.

Also comfortable are Rustic Root’s prices. In a day and age when the cost of dining out has risen significantly, the dishes here don’t come with a side of sticker shock. No shareable plate comes in above $15, and, with the exception of two sizable steak dishes, entrees top out at $36, with four mains in the $20s. Even most remarkable is the wine list, which features a whopping 40 bottles under $40. (I think we just solved the mystery of what’s fueling the conversational volume in the dining room.)

Rustic Root is a self-billed craft-cocktail venue. Prices in this category also come in below the local average, while quality ranks in the top percentile. From classics like a simple whiskey sour or Old Fashioned to a house twist on the latter incorporating amaro and banana liqueur with a select barrel of Woodford Reserve bourbon that’s exclusive to Rustic Root, balance is a strength. Ditto “Porch Swing,” another bourbon tipple that blends that spirit’s vanilla character with black walnut bitters, blueberry sweetness, and lemon. Everything is in order, making for a refreshing cocktail (or a solid eye-opener during Rustic Root’s weekend brunch).

Moving from the bar to the back of the house, Chef de Cuisine Alex Diaz and his crew are putting out food that, while thoughtful, doesn’t insist upon itself. Bold, familiar flavors are the name of the game, allowing diners to settle down, sink in, and simply enjoy rather than contemplate or take time out of their conversations to wonder aloud what togarashi is or debate the merits of oysters sourced from one region or another.

Starters include a Sophie’s choice of sorts, with biscuits and cast-iron skillet cornbread vying for attention. Both are served with maple-pecan and charred jalapeño butter, which would go well with just about anything. (Hot tip: If you go the cornbread route, you can still get those biscuits as part of two different entrées: Chicken Pot Pie or a brined-and-fried chicken.)

Beyond bread, shareables (which are on the smaller size, portion-wise) include Mini Maryland-Style Crab Cakes, honey-lime-glazed pork belly with chimichurri and popcorn, Bacon Mac ‘n Cheese, and Wagyu Meatballs with silky roasted garlic potatoes and a bourbon cream sauce. For people of a certain age, that last one brings back all the retro feels of — and I say this in the most respectful, least ironic manner possible — a Swanson’s Salisbury steak TV dinner. Beefy, salty, and satisfying, they’re an absolute delight. (Note: Sunday is $19.60 TV Dinner Night at Rustic Root, so there could be something to this.)

The star of the mains is a lobster pappardelle in which the sweetness of the shellfish dovetails with that of corn kernels, basil, and oven-roasted tomatoes. A dash of Espelette pepper adds some amplifying zing. For the red meat contingent, there’s a signature burger with bacon jam and a sunny-side-up egg, Filet Frites with blue-cheese butter and Parmesan fries, New England Steak Tips, or the big splurge, a 28-day-aged 16-ounce ribeye with potato gratin and a Cabernet reduction.

While Rustic Root has largely gone with the tried-and-true menu from its original location (including a simple dessert menu that includes a tableside build-your-own ice cream sundae option), the aforementioned pot pie and a sage-brined Kurobuta pork chop with a verjus reduction are Solana Beach exclusives. Chef Diaz says more new dishes will be introduced once his team finds their footing, but with nightly packed houses and raves from first-round patrons, it seems Rustic Root has already hit its stride seaside. 858.381.4800, rusticrootsd.com

Service 4.5
Timeliness 3.5
Ambience 4
Culinary Innovation 3.5
Food Quality 4
Wine List 4.5
Cocktail Program 4.5
Value 4.5