Dining Review: Mia’s

The culinary riches keep getting richer in Solana Beach thanks to hospitality vets with an affinity for the intimate community. Last fall, residents welcomed Lana, an eatery custom-built for them by a pair of restaurateurs endeavoring to encapsulate their hometown’s coastal casual spirit. And in November, another dine-in love letter named Mia’s debuted two blocks up Solana Beach’s stretch of Highway 101 in the space that previously housed resto and tequila bar Alce 101. The comfy come-as-you-are concept comes from seasoned pros, including Rick Staunton, a co-founder of SoCal’s Bluewater Grill chain who resides in Rancho Santa Fe and was ecstatic over introducing something new and heartfelt in his own “backyard.”

Staunton’s collaborators on the project include his son, Henry, and Bluewater partner Jimmy Ulcickas. The junior Staunton oversees operations at Mia’s and played a vital role in honing its culinary point of view. Given the space’s previous identity, it would have been easy to install another Mexican restaurant. With that cuisine already abundant, not just in Solana Beach but throughout San Diego County, the Stauntons decided to blend the flavors of Baja California with those of the Mediterranean. 

Fresh, sustainable seafood, high-quality proteins, and locally sourced produce are the tools of opening chef Steve Ramirez’s trade. From there, he brings in ingredients from Greek, Spanish, Italian, and Northern African cuisine, marrying them with staples from Mexico as well as other South American countries including Peru and Argentina. 

Meanwhile, Mia’s’ centerpiece bar skews Mexican with tequila and mezcal dominating a list of house cocktails that includes a “Oaxaca Old Fashioned” with Aztec chocolate mole bitters, a peaty pineapple mezcal and coffee-infused rum concoction called “Tia Mia,” and a quartet of house margaritas. A tart, funky carrot and passionfruit iteration is vibrant and surprisingly low in sweetness, while aloe liqueur, cucumber, and cilantro lend spa-day appeal to the “Aguachile Margarita.” (Pair it with an aguachile starter featuring buttery Hokkaido scallops.)

The Mia’s menu begins with a lengthy list of shareables suited for up to three diners per order. Raw and cured sea fare options abound with hamachi in hibiscus ponzu with charred pineapple, coconut-tinged snapper ceviche with spicy aji amarilllo, and oysters in a smoky lime-and-mezcal mignonette. Street-food classics are also celebrated with flaky picadillo empanadas served with a peanut-based chipotle salsa; blue-corn street tacos stuffed with grilled octopus, pork belly, mushroom tinga; or fried cod served gringo-style with jack cheese, cabbage, pico de gallo, and harissa-spiked ranch dressing.

On the entrée side, bone-in Mary’s Chicken is enlivened with Aleppo pepper and served with pistachio dukkah (an Egyptian spice blend), while an ancho rub and chimichurri add depth of flavor to char-broiled skirt steak. Lamb chops taste as if they’ve been extracted from a tagine thanks to minted jus, tender confited eggplant, and couscous studded with tangy dried fruits. But if there’s a must-order dish, it’s the chile relleno, a blackened poblano stuffed with a delectable, oozy blend of Mexican cheeses and topped with mango and shrimp. It’s both heartwarming and stomach-filling.

While Mia’s’ edible (and rather affordable) fare brings in widespread regional influences, its interiors take precise inspiration from Baja and the sea. Torrey Pines High grad Adam Arnold of TLK Builders oversaw the interior’s transformation into a warm space with sage-upholstered seating, medium-toned wood accents, and white walls replete with coastal-inspired artwork. The beachy vibes extend into an alley lined with coral banquettes care of a wall-length mural of a wave in motion beneath a citrus-hued sunset from local artist Carolina Arrieta. It’s exacting yet in no way overdone.

Mia’s is chill, worldly, inviting, and tasty. It’s a vibe. And it’s perfectly suited for the gastronomically booming neighborhood it calls home. 858.947.6427, mias101.com

Service: 4
Timeliness: 4
Ambience: 4
Culinary Innovation: 3.5
Food Quality: 4
Cocktail Program: 4
Wine List: 3.5
Beer List: 3.5
Value: 4.5