Dining Review: Lana

Though one of the county’s smallest municipalities, perhaps no community comes up as big as Solana Beach when it comes to embodying San Diego’s trademark brand of casual cool. A small-town feel and beach adjacency make for staycation vibes 365 days a year. This is not lost on Travis LeGrand and Mark Wheadon, longtime friends and restaurateurs who’ve made good use of the high-capacity bones of a former CPK on the city’s main drag, constructing Lana, a love letter to locals designed to provide them an everyday haven matching their style.

Quality ingredients and mindful cookery are at the heart of Lana’s menu. The wine list features lesser-seen varietals and producers, but it’s designed to expand palates rather than win over the likes of Wine Spectator (though it just may). LeGrand and Wheadon aren’t looking for accolades. They’re looking to welcome in patrons — not just for birthdays and special occasions, but multiple times a week — with a restaurant concept that’s about as altruistic as it gets these days.

In an age where overdesign has become the norm, Lana’s interiors demonstrate restraint. Softly lit, walnut- and cedar-accented interiors are punched up by a pair of vibrant Mardi Gras float flowers (a nod to Wheadon’s daughter’s college days in New Orleans), vintage black-and-white photos of Solana Beach back in the day, and colorful sconce lampshades. The latter inspired a patio mural from local artist Paige West, featuring layers of multi-hued tropical flora. It’s a lovely space that’s contemporary yet comfy, embodying the “upscale casual” motif that so many dining establishments struggle to nail. 

The reason Lana works goes well beyond aesthetics. The menu is made up of dishes that are identifiable. One need not bring their French-English dictionary or study up on worldly cuisine ahead of their visit. And though Consulting Executive Chef David McIntyre (Spago, CUT at 45 Park Lane) and Chef de Cuisine Matt Martinez (Cowboy Star, Avant) add finesse and creativity, they wisely avoid reinventing any wheels. Ditto bar manager Brandon Curry, who focuses on invigorating staple cocktails.

Lana’s drink list includes the “Pony Boy” (G&T plus pink peppercorn), “Leave a Light On” (Old Fashioned with toasted sesame and vanilla), “Tuxedo #2” (gin martini with maraschino and absinthe), and “Victory Lap” (a “Lana” Julep). “Brujo Sangre,” a mezcal-based blood orange offering given nice lime-borne acidity, makes for a great first sip, especially when matched with Lana’s similarly citric sea bass aguachile. Anointed with two shades of radish and edible flowers, it’s almost too beautiful to eat, but well worth it for its balanced, clean heat featuring just the right amount of capsaicin.

Other starters include sweet corn soup with basil oil, a namesake chopped salad with hunks of soppressata and Seascape cheese, yellowtail sashimi in a citrus ponzu sauce, and tartares of beef (with capers and egg yolk jam) and spicy tuna (with chili aioli). Then there’s the wild mushroom tagliatelle, a dish of toothsome, house-made pasta dressed in a creamy sauce blending woodsy umami with dairy-fat richness. Finished with Parm, it’s both delicious and filling.

In the kitchen, McIntyre and Martinez are getting plenty of use out of the wood-fired oven their predecessors left behind — and not just for the facilitation of flatbreads. Chicken is roasted to juicy perfection in that holdover, along with veal meatballs served in miniature cast-iron vessels filled with bubbling marinara. As for Lana’s pair of pizzas — wild mushroom or spicy chorizo — the crust is thin but not crackery with an edge that’s sufficiently blackened yet nice and chewy inside.

Other large plates include grilled steaks (10-ounce flatiron or 12-ounce New York), mussels in a saffron beurre blanc, and sea bass with zucchini-basil puree and a mascarpone emulsion. But the merit of an every-night-or-any-night casual spot pretty much comes down to the quality of its burger. Lana’s is exceptional, the kind of sizeable delight you see someone else enjoying then can’t stop thinking about until you’ve ordered one for yourself. Beefy runoff from a Snake River wagyu patty topped with aged cheddar and jalapeño marmalade soaks the bottom bun, making for a real yet wholly worthwhile challenge. 

Desserts include a soft, gooey chocolate chip cookie and dishes adorned with ice cream from Oceanside cult-fave Little Fox. They’re worth coming in for all on their own, as are bar snacks like baked Camembert or a riff on pigs-in-a-blanket that sees tender pork belly wrapped in puff pastry and served with honey mustard. These amuse-sized treats are perfect with a beer or as accompaniments when indulging in selections from the oft-changing wine list.

Having just opened in July, it’s remarkable that Lana already feels as comfortable as it does, but it is. It’s perhaps the best indicator of how well its founders executed their vision of providing a soft place to land for the people of the city they named their restaurant after. 858.286.1211, lanasb.com

Service: 4
Timeliness: 3.5
Ambience: 4.5
Culinary Innovation: 3.5
Food Quality: 4
Wine List: 4.5
Cocktail Program: 4
Value: 4