Dining Review: Communion

Even boasting a colorful impressionist mural, chapel-esque woodwork, an ivory fabric ceiling providing a sense of cloud cover, and a kaleidoscope of butterflies suspended in time, the interiors at Mission Hills’ newest dining destination are sure to play second-fiddle to the main attraction. Perched on the top floor of The Sasan apartment building on Washington Street, window-walled Communion provides patrons with unimpeded views of the city, from airliners en route to Lindbergh Field to the colorfully lit high-rises of downtown and more. It would be worth a visit just to take in that 360-degree feast for the eyes, but with a menu as eclectic and everchanging as the restaurant’s décor, it’s highly recommended that one stick around for a nosh. 

Communion’s kitchen is helmed by Executive Chef Mike Moritz, formerly of fine-dining stalwarts Mille Fleurs and Mister A’s, who is reveling in the carte blanche extended to him by owner Jacquee Renna Downing (Pacifica Seafood, La Quinta Cliffhouse, and previously Pacifica Del Mar). His youthful enthusiasm is palpable as he discusses recipe development and humblebrags that he’s introduced so many dishes since the restaurant’s November debut that the menu on its website is perpetually outpaced. It’s not frivolous creation for the sake of being prolific, but instead a freewheeling form of R&D — and it’s worked. 

Along the way, items created on a whim have been so well received they’ve become mainstays on a menu composed largely of dishes meant to be shared. Case in point: Moritz’s take on Thailand’s answer to hot-and-sour, Tom Yum soup. Served with sea bass poached to tender, moist perfection in coconut milk, it’s stocked with plump tomatoes and snappy beech mushrooms, delivering soulful spice and refreshing acidity. 

Thai is just one of a multitude of wide-ranging cultural influences coloring Communion’s menu. Lamb Lollipops are crusted with za’atar (a blend of sumac and dried spices) and served with vadouvan curry yogurt, and the accoutrements for a roasted rack of pork include salsa negra (Oaxacan-style mole sans chocolate), mango pico de gallo, and, veering away from Mexico, coconut rice. 

Spanish and Italian influences dovetail in an octopus appetizer that’s far more than standard blackened tentacles served with a lemon wedge and a sprinkle of chopped parsley. Moritz’s crisped octopus is sliced into tender-centered medallions dotted with earthy saffron aioli atop a briny squid-ink risotto with a hint of citrusy acid. It’s a complete and satisfying dish.

Seasonality is a cornerstone of Communion’s approach, meaning Spiny Lobster à la Plancha or persimmons with pomegranate vinaigrette may be absent on the bill of fare on a given evening or time of year based on the availability of ingredients. But it’s a fair trade-off for the freshness of dishes like Peas and Artichokes. A salad mounted atop English pea hummus, it’s gussied up with marinated artichokes, yuzu dressing, and Parmigiano aged for 18 months, but the showstoppers are pea pods sliced down the middle to reveal the garden-fresh, verdant pearls within.

Indulgences include Kaluga Caviar on buckwheat blinis, baked phyllo-wrapped triple-cream brie, Wagyu Beef Carpaccio, and a 45-ounce porterhouse with whipped bone marrow butter. But in terms of technique, plenitude, and value-for-dollar, the entrée standout is a duo of duck. This plate of riches (and richness) includes two seared dry-aged duck breasts fanned out over twin islets of vanilla-infused celeriac purée surrounded by a cassis reduction with broccolini and asparagus, plus confit leg meat stuffed into eggroll-like cigars. At $50, it’s a modern-day steal.

On the other end of the omnivore spectrum, Communion’s vegan- and vegetarian-friendly mains are more than mandatory afterthoughts. The restaurant opened with a beet “filet” that, served with a mushroom-based “bordelaise,” was convincing enough in its beefiness to be sent back by meat abstainers. Moritz has since transitioned to a curried cauliflower steak with shishito peppers and pickled shallots, and has an eggplant innovation in the works. 

The gluten-averse are also well represented, if not championed, most notably by pastry chef Aly Lyng (George’s at the Cove). Everything on her dessert menu is gluten-free, including a Basque cheesecake with salted caramel, sticky apple cake, and The Ritual, a flourless chocolate tart layered with espresso ice cream, hazelnut pralines, and condensed-milk ice.

Rounding out Communion’s offerings is a beverage program highlighted by cocktails taking traditional tipples into uncharted territory. A twist on the Boulevardier called “Eternal Path” ups the oak factor of Storyhouse rye and brings in fruitiness with cherry-infused Campari and cherry vanilla bark bitters, while a martini gets an overhaul care of a coconut three ways — a fat wash, flavored gin, and a pandan-blended infusion — in a drink called “Shatki” that’s exotic yet still plenty assertive.

Those looking for something both different and food-friendly would do well to order the “Sherry Sherry Lady.” A combination of saloon-strength brandy, three varieties of sherry, lemon, and a shrub combining rooibos tea, blackberry, and thyme, it’s refreshing yet bold with flavors of caramel, red grape, apple, and cinnamon, which finishes like iced tea.

It’s clear a great deal of thought and care went into every phase of Communion, a level of attention not seen often enough. Its sky-high locale seems fitting, indeed. 619.606.5568, dinecommunionsd.com

Service: 4.5
Timeliness: 3.5
Ambience: 4.5
Culinary Innovation: 4
Food Quality: 4
Wine List: 3.5
Cocktail Program: 4.5
Value: 4.5