Dining Review: 31ThirtyOne

Drew Deckman’s name is well known among epicures, particularly those who revel in cross-border expeditions to Baja’s Valle de Guadalupe, where he operates three standout restaurants. Two of those concepts were recognized by the Michelin Guide last year when the publication revealed results of its initial inspections in Mexico, with Deckman’s en el Mogor earning a coveted star as well as a “green star” for its commitment to sustainability, a distinction also lauded on its sister spot, Conchas de Piedra.

Deckman has spent more than a decade perfecting the pitch of his culinary voice in Baja, expanding on skillsets and lessons learned as a young chef working under noted European stalwarts including Paul Bocuse and Madeleine Kamman. And he’s done so in an environment both rustic and romantic, stoking the flames of a workhorse grill that’s the centerpiece of an open-air, dirt-floor kitchen. He cherishes that literal and figurative openness, the absence of walls as well as the sometimes-stifling nature of traditional restaurant setups.

As much as he loves the life and the lifestyle he has carved out for himself south of the border, Deckman has long yearned to operate a restaurant in San Diego. After spending the past eight years searching for an ideal location in which to do so, one presented itself in the bustling North Park community at 3131 University Avenue. Formerly home to the short-lived Hoxton Manor, the 2,500-square-foot space had a lot to offer, namely intimate shotgun dining room environs like one might find in New York City, and a quaint rooftop bar. 

The only thing it lacked was a means for the kitchen team to view the dining room and vice versa. To cure that culinary claustrophobia, Deckman blew out a wall, creating an open kitchen with diner-esque seating. That area’s leather-bound half-back barstools have since become prime perches for watching Deckman and his team (which includes his son-turned-sous, Sam) at his first-ever U.S. venture,
the five-months-young 31ThirtyOne by Deckman’s.

An inauspicious frontage gives way to a small, simple dining room with cream-colored walls, soft-toned wood, and brass accents. A retro Spotify playlist and the convivial buzz of patrons cement the old-school dinner club vibe, where everyone has the spotlight thanks to a mounted mirror running along the top of the west wall. Tilted just so, it allows Deckman and his crew to keep tabs on diners. It’s sneaky, smart, and — bonus — allows for views of others’ artfully plated dishes.

Following the established eco-friendly ethos of its chef-owner (and host of the new Amazon Prime docuseries, Ingrediente: Mexico), 31ThirtyOne sources proteins and ingredients from purveyors within drivable distance of the restaurant. That extends to the beverage program, with a wine list made up of selections ranging from Valle de Guadalupe up to California’s Central Coast, beers hailing from San Diego and Ensenada breweries, and house cocktails focusing heavily on agave spirits.

Produce is the pride of local farmers, and much of the abundance of seafood coloring the menu is landed by local and nearby fishing operations. This includes various Baja oysters (Kumiai, Pai Pai, Chingon) served on the half shell with pink peppercorn mignonette, meaty sardines uplifted by the acid of a boquerones-style vinegar cure, and whole-roasted San Diego rockfish. All the above are among à la carte appetizers and larger items from a “to share” section that includes a 24-ounce dry-aged beef ribeye as well as risotto with black cod (available with white truffle on request).

First-time visitors seeking the broadest sample of Deckman’s style will be best served ordering a four-course prix-fixe option. A starter of bigeye tuna is a harbinger of things to come with its generous serving size and accoutrements that make for an incredibly well-rounded offering. Crispy Monterey Bay seaweed and saline sea beans are as effective in conveying the dish’s aquatic flavor profile as a plump, buttery lobe of uni. The latter is cut nicely by a fruity Arroyo Grande Albariño-Sauvignon Blanc blend served as part of the optional beverage pairing.

Decadence and bold flavors, hallmarks of Deckman’s stateside offerings, are exemplified by a second-course standout. Calamari and raviolo filled with smooth tilefish mousse nesting an oozy egg yolk are served in an incredibly rich broth sporting a texture between gumbo and demi-glace. Made from veal, squab, and more, its meatiness is countered by rolled ribbons of pickled leeks. It’s an example of what Deckman terms “alternative surf-and-turf,” another of which comes in the form of exotic monchong with braised oxtail. 

A highlight of the prix-fixe mains is a game bird preparation in which quail (or squab on the evening I visited) is separated into perfectly cooked segments and arranged as part of one of the most beautiful plates in the county. Served with red kuri squash prepared three ways (charred mezzalunas, tart pickled strips, silky purée), golden-browned chanterelle mushrooms, Brussels sprouts, and fried sage leaves, it’s an entrée that promotes sampling a different forkful with each bite. The best part of this self-guided tour is that there is no wrong combination. The dish is wintry in its earthy, warming appeal and positively scrumptious.

31ThirtyOne’s bill of fare changes with great frequency based on whimsy, seasonality, and the availability of ingredients. It’s meant to be fluid, but constants like conscientious sourcing, creativity, and adept cookery help ensure a quality experience no matter what hits the table. 

It may have taken longer than most would have liked for this toque to unleash his talent north of the border — including Deckman himself — but he has arrived, and San Diego’s dining scene is all the better for it. the3131.com

Service:  4
Timeliness: 3.5
Ambience: 3.5
Culinary Innovation: 4.5
Food Quality: 4.5
Wine List: 4
Cocktail Program: 4
Value: 3.5