Couture and architecture converge in La Jolla’s most photogenic house

La Jolla fashion insiders had the rare opportunity to view couture designer Julie de Libran’s latest collection at the stunning Yen House in La Jolla. The designer, who grew up in Rancho Santa Fe, presented her Parisian-inflected pieces in the home by late architect Kendrick Bangs Kellogg. It was a perfect union of style and function. 

Also known as the Lotus House, the curvaceous wood and glass home was an ideal venue to showcase the latest collection, where de Libran deftly puts her own spin on feminine-masculine archetypes. Known for creating versatile, elegant clothing for real women, the designer was on hand to greet clients and take them through the nuances. 

Established in 2019, the purpose-driven brand has established a strong network of community leaders and artists who are authentic ambassadors. Her designs have been worn by Emily Ratajkowski, Mariah Carey, Kirsten Dunst, and Kelly Rutherford. 

“After 30 years in the fashion business, I decided to create my own eco-responsible brand, offering expertly crafted luxury pieces that sit between couture and ready to wear to create a versatile, elevated, and effortlessly styled silhouette,” says de Libran, who worked for Gianfranco Ferré, Gianni Versace, Prada, and Louis Vuitton with Marc Jacobs.

Architecture and fashion are not strange bedfellows. After all, Louis Vuitton’s creative director Nicolas Ghesquière has staged his runways at some of the world’s stunners — including our very Salk Institute for the fashion house’s Cruise 2023 collection. The event reignited the love affair with Louis Kahn’s brutalist masterpiece, considered one of the most important modern American architectural sites. 

On this afternoon, style lovers got a rare glimpse into the earthy house, commissioned by Dr. Samuel and Kay Yen in 1978. The directive: Create a stunning showpiece for entertaining. Kellogg, who was a disciple of Frank Lloyd Wright and master of organic architecture, created something very site-specific to the canyon location, harnessing ocean views and a natural material palette. There’s concrete, glass and wood; every balcony and room features sweeping views of the ocean or the sandstone canyon, warmed by California sunlight. 

“It’s basically the inside of a nautilus shell, with each level a few steps down, all wrapping around a central atrium. And there is an undulating motion to the roof as well, and the ceilings are curved not only around the atrium but also sloping downward as you descend the stairs,” says Dee Hickman (nee Yen), who grew up in the house and orchestrated the trunk show. “It was a gorgeous synergy of couture fashion and architecture.”

“The huge beams are rough-hewn Douglas fir, and the ceiling is constructed of thin slats of gorgeous wood that had to be steamed, shaped and placed, one by one. It’s truly one of the most unique homes, and a feat of masterful craftsmanship,” says Hickman, a design enthusiast and Studio Manager at DWR La Jolla.  

Lucky for us, de Libran has an on-again rapport with San Diego. The Torrey Pines grad returns regularly to host intimate trunk shows, building a solid following for her mix of polished, ready-to-wear and demi-couture pieces. A notable aspect is her commitment to sustainable practices, utilizing deadstock and leftover fabrics, sometimes even upcycling old designs. 

Kellogg passed away last year at the age of 90. “He was a creative genius who liked to push the boundaries of what was possible or even imaginable; each home was a marvel of unconventional engineering and design, each one extraordinary and outrageous,” says Hickman.