Why tinned fish is the chic new charcuterie board staple

It’s an old saying, yes, but it still rings true today: Good things come in small packages. (In this case, gorgeous packages.) I don’t know about you, but I’ve eaten plenty of canned tuna in my day, as well as the occasional sardine or two. And at our house, canned smoked oysters always make an appearance on the holiday table.

But there’s a lot more to tinned fish these days than meets the eye. Sure, I admit — the first thing that drew me to the canned seafood aisle was the staggeringly stunning artwork on the packaging. Little tiny pieces of art, carefully and thoughtfully created for something that, basically, has been the stepsister of seafood in our country. My thinking is, something so beautiful must be delicious, right?

While the tinned fish trend is just now hitting the States, it has been a popular pantry item in Portugal for well over a century.

Of course, it only makes sense that chefs across the country have started incorporating these alluring tins — with all varieties of seafood — onto their menus. Some restaurants even highlight tins as their main menu items. Maiden Lane in New York City and Saltie Girl in Boston have both made tinned seafood — also known as conserva-style seafood — their bar food concept.

Locally, here in North Park, there’s a little wine store called Clos Wine Shop, where you can purchase wine, peruse the tin aisle, and pair your bottle with a tinned selection or two.

These little gems aren’t for everyone, and some of the delicacies are an acquired taste. If you’re less adventurous, I suggest starting with the smoked salmon or mackerel — both excellent with just crackers or a sliced baguette, which you can sprinkle with a little sea salt to soak up the flavor-infused oil.

Soon, you’ll be moving on to sardines in tomato sauce and octopus in lemony olive oil.

Tinned fish is versatile. It’s great for a picnic or a quick lunch straight from the can, or you can fancy it up by turning it into a dip or spread. I like to marinate the octopus in an herby mustard vinaigrette, toss it over greens, soak up the leftover jus with crusty bread, and pair it with a super cold, crisp Chablis.

I’ve found a decent selection of tinned fish at Whole Foods, Cardiff Seaside Market, and World Market. Online, try eatfishwife.com, tincanfish.com, and latienda.com.