Step into British history and luxury at Cliveden House

Long before I started writing travel articles, I was reading them, which was an uncommon pastime for a teenager in the Midwest. I enjoyed the mystique of faraway places and tried to imagine how the languages sounded. Some places looked a little too cookie-cutter and others seemed too good to be true, but I loved reading about the truly intriguing ones. My favorite of these was Cliveden House on the banks of the River Thames in the London countryside. The massive mansion was built by the 2nd Duke of Buckingham in 1666 and Queen Victoria was a frequent guest. Most important to me at the time, the Beatles filmed part of the movie Help! on the property. 

Over the years, I forgot about Cliveden (but not the Beatles, of course) until recently, when I was looking for interesting places to stay in the UK. I was reminded that in 1893 the house was purchased by William Waldorf Astor, the richest man in America, who gave it to his son and daughter-in-law as a wedding gift. Lady Nancy Astor entertained graciously and, before long, Cliveden became the epicenter of England’s politics and power. Not coincidentally, Lady Astor was the first woman to take a seat in Parliament.

The Astors donated the house to the National Trust in 1942, but Cliveden remained their home for many years. From 1969 to 1983, Cliveden was leased to Stanford University as an overseas campus. When I learned that it became a luxury hotel in 1985, I lost little time in making a reservation.

Cliveden House is less than 45 minutes west of London and 20 minutes from Heathrow Airport. The hotel has 48 spacious rooms and suites, some with hot tubs, each named after a prominent guest or figure from Cliveden’s past. These include Winston Churchill, the Prince of Wales, President Franklin D. Roosevelt, Charlie Chaplin, and George Bernard Shaw. Mrs. Astor was also acquainted with Joseph P. Kennedy, father of John F. Kennedy.

Cliveden’s authenticity is remarkable. Large portraits of historic figures in gilded frames dominate the décor and furnishings are all true to the period. Cliveden cuisine is as outstanding as the décor. Head Chef Christopher Hannon creates menus with a focus on locally sourced fresh produce. Meals, including three-course à la carte and seven-course tasting menus, are offered in the elegant dining room, which was originally the drawing room of the house. It enjoys a stunning south-facing view over the National Trust garden. Lunch and dinner are also served in the informal Astor Grill in the charming old stable block that once housed Lord Astor’s most prized fillies. I also enjoyed the handsome Residents Lounge where an attentive staff was always ready with drinks and light meals. The chef here makes delicious salmon finger sandwiches, and this space soon became my favorite place for afternoon tea, which sometimes became afternoon champagne.   

Surrounding Cliveden, 376 lush acres are ideal for walking and exploring in the gardens and, in addition, boat trips on the Thames are available in a variety of vintage vessels with or without champagne or an afternoon tea picnic. We enjoyed a scenic float with great views of picturesque Tudor cottages and flocks of swans and ducks. Trips upriver to the famous regatta town of Henly and to Windsor offer more stunning sights. Speaking of Windsor, in 2018, Meghan Markle and Prince Harry were married nearby at St. George’s Chapel at Windsor Castle and she spent the night before at Cliveden. 

In addition to boating, guests who play golf can take advantage of the hotel’s partnerships and be chauffeur-driven or even helicoptered to play on the course of their choice. There are also frequent classic car rallies at Cliveden and the property is home to indoor and outdoor heated pools, tennis and pickleball facilities, a state-of-the-art gym, and regular fitness classes. Cliveden is dog-friendly and there are play areas on the property for children. In addition, Legoland Windsor Resort is nearby. Cliveden also hosts an annual Literary Festival each autumn where writers, politicians, and public figures continue the 350-year-old tradition of lively discussion that has reverberated in the literary salons of Cliveden throughout the ages. Historic Cliveden is also an ideal place for destination weddings. 

Based on my experience, I think it’s safe to say that regardless of the purpose of their visit, guests at Cliveden House are treated like royalty.