Inside Palm Springs’ boutique hotel revival

If you haven’t been out to the desert in the past few years — well, you are in for a treat. There has been a revival going on in Palm Springs that has both travelers and critics alike singing its praises. In addition to the corporate hoteliers like The Thompson by Hyatt and Kimpton’s Rowan brand, which recently opened beautiful 150-room properties on prominent corners of North Palm Canyon Drive, a new crop of hip, revamped, off-the-beaten-path boutique hotels has emerged.

Palm Springs, and especially the area around downtown proper, is known for an abundance of smaller mid-century modern motels and bungalow-style properties built in the 1940s through the 1960s. This was considered the golden era of resort development in the desert, and the properties were designed to be both affordable and stylish.

In the past few years, many of these vintage properties have been scooped up by ambitious new owners who have teamed up with top designers to restore and reopen them under inviting new names.

The recently opened Holiday House is a gem hiding in plain sight. This celebrated revival of the 28-room Chase Hotel, originally designed by Herbert Burns in 1951, is both laid-back and sophisticated. It feels like a Provençal-influenced, Saint-Tropez-style hideaway for jetsetters and celebrities who want to stay low-key. The rooms are bright with natural window light; blue patterned wallpaper and matching bedding meet white-tiled bathrooms with upscale showers and fixtures.

The morning staff sets out an impressive continental breakfast with cheese, meats, cereal, fruits, yogurt, pastries, and eggs. The coffee is local, and the cocktails are strong — two qualities I always appreciate in a hospitable stay. The staff is well-trained and wears many hats, always happy to help in any way. On my most recent visit, I brought Larry, my terrier-poo, who was welcomed with a swag bag of his own.

If you feel like chilling, there is no need to leave. The on-property eatery, The Pantry, does a great job with lunch and dinner as well as poolside service all day long. Holiday House is a two-block walk to downtown Palm Springs, where there are unlimited choices for food and shopping.

I visit Palm Springs nearly every February for Modernism Week. My usual hideaway is Villa Royale, a gorgeous property with 38 rooms and villas. Its Spanish/Mission/California Ranch-style exterior, with low-slung roofs, stucco walls, courtyards, and tiled accents, beautifully punctuate the mid-century-furnished interiors. Every bungalow is different and decorated eclectically, so every time you stay, it’s a new experience. The hotel restaurant, Del Rey, a Spanish-style tapas eatery, is beautifully designed, dimly lit, and serves excellent cuisine.

On Thursday nights, the chef offers a family-style, five-course paella dinner that starts with sangria and bites on the patio. It’s a good reason not to leave the hotel property.

Again, pup Larry was welcomed with a swag bag, bowl, and his own bed waiting for him in the room. Saying that most Palm Springs hotels are dog-friendly is an understatement.

Another night, I dined at The Barn Kitchen, just around the corner from Villa Royale. I can honestly say it was one of the best meals I’ve eaten all year. Do not miss the “smashed cucumbers” — fresh, crisp, crunchy, and generously dressed in a salsa macha vinaigrette. It is one of those flavors you will crave for days after. I also really liked their house specialty, Mole for Two. I handily ate the whole dish myself! Seriously, it was that good.

Another longtime favorite of mine is the Parker Palm Springs. It’s a larger hotel with full-service amenities, including room service and a spa. It was built in 1959 and was the first Holiday Inn in California. Gene Autry bought it in the early ’60s, and in 1990, Merv Griffin acquired it, naming it the Merv Griffin Resort Hotel & Givenchy Spa. In 2004, it underwent a complete renovation, designed by Jonathan Adler, and reopened as Parker Palm Springs.

The Parker set the bar for every hotel that followed and is still one of the hippest spots in town. Make sure you dine at Mister Parker, their stylish hotel restaurant. Low ceilings, provocative art, thick upholstered booths, low lighting, and a moody playlist are complemented by a solid menu and drink list. If you weren’t already in love when you were seated, you will be by the time you leave. They describe it as dark and discreet — the place will cast a magical spell, and I know this firsthand.

Cheeky’s for breakfast serves the best chilaquiles, and try the fresh corn pancakes. Also hit their spot next-door, Birba, for pizza and pastas.

Tyler’s for lunch. Get there at 11am when they open, or you will have to stand in line for this iconic Palm Springs staple. Owner Diana DiAmico opened in this former gas station location in 1996, and you will still find her working the floor. Burgers, shakes, and a potato salad I’ve been trying to replicate for over 15 years top her menu. It sounds like a diner, but it’s not — it’s a local institution, and Diana is a celebrity in town.

Bar Cecil is a newcomer on the scene. Gorgeous dining room, gorgeous people, and a French-inspired menu. If you don’t get a reservation, grab a seat at the bar — the full menu is available, and the stools are fabulous. Next-door is Beaton’s, a bar with small plates and worth all the fuss it takes to get a table.

Bar Issi at The Thompson is chic, new, notable, and hard to get a reservation. I have also always liked Workshop Kitchen + Bar, with industrial-chic interiors comprised mostly of concrete and wood — a designer’s dream.

While you’re in town, be sure to see the Palm Springs Art Museum in the center of downtown. If you love architecture, take some of the mid-century home tours, or hop on the double-decker bus tour, which drives by Frank Sinatra’s old house and a home currently owned by Leonardo DiCaprio. The Aerial Tramway will take you to a mountaintop viewpoint, where you can even enjoy a cliffside dinner at Peaks Restaurant.

Wherever you stay in Palm Springs and whatever you do, whether you are hiking, sightseeing or just relaxing by a gorgeous pool, it is always something special because this is a place all about architecture, design, art, and restaurants.