On a hilltop high above the verdant Temecula Valley, Damian Doffo points to a distinctive notch carved into the Coastal Mountain Range ten miles to the West. “That V,” he says, “is exactly what makes this such a great wine growing region.” Doffo, a second generation vintner, is referring to gaps in the range that allow cool ocean breezes to pass into the hot valley, moderating temperatures and creating ideal conditions — warm days and cool nights — for growing grapes. Pioneered by Ely Callaway, who opened the first winery in 1974 (he would later become known for golf as well as grapes), the Temecula Valley is now home to more than 35 wineries, each with its own personality, from Doffo, a family-run boutique winery, to the expansive South Coast Winery Resort & Spa, with its high-end villas and handsome restaurant.

Stop by Doffo Winery, and 27-year-old Damian will likely be working the crowded tasting room with his family. “This is my work horse, my ‘go to,’” he says, pouring a sample of the winery’s 2009 Syrah. “It goes great with T-bone steak and mashed potatoes.”

A new production facility, called the “Moto Barrel Room,” which opened in late September, also houses the family’s collection of vintage motorcycles, mostly Ducatis, which Marcelo Doffo, Damian’s dad, restores (and both of them race). Marcelo immigrated to the United States from Argentina in 1975, fixing up wrecked cars and flipping them until he opened a body shop in Santa Ana. The family became “backyard winemakers,” eventually buying land in Temecula in 1997. Their big, full-bodied reds, especially Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, and Zinfandel, now sell out within a few months on the shelves. “It was really humbling,” says Damian. “It was never meant to be this. We just started out making wines for family and friends.” The Doffos believe big isn’t better. “We would rather produce 1,000 cases of high-quality wine rather than thousands that are lesser.” But wine isn’t the only product in demand — just try to snag mom Zulma’s fiery chimichurri, made with parsley, garlic, more garlic, and a secret Argentinian spice — she sells out of 100 jars a week.

By contrast, Jim Carter’s South Coast Winery Resort & Spa, named Best California State Winery for two years in a row, is a sprawling 39-acre estate with a large tasting room decorated with dozens of ribbons for its award-winning wines, fine dining at the Vineyard Rose Restaurant, and pampering at its Grapeseed Spa. Spacious, well-appointed villas with fireplaces open onto private terraces, just steps from row upon row of grapes. A short stroll takes you to the main buildings where you can sip wine on the terrace, have drinks and appetizers at the bar, or dine in the restaurant with its high, beamed ceiling and Cabernet-colored banquettes. South Coast is a popular, picturesque spot for weddings and corporate events.  

Thornton Winery, owned by San Diego philanthropists John M. and Sally B. Thornton and their son, Steve, is a French-style chateau, with the Café Champagne restaurant and the Champagne Lounge for tastings, along with wedding and banquet facilities, a gift shop, and a garden where the chef plucks fresh herbs for his specialties. The winery hosts the popular Champagne Jazz series during the summer, outdoor concerts that attract big-name musicians.

Falkner Winery, founded in 2000 by Ray and Loretta Falkner, has a tasting room, picnic area shaded by trees (you can buy lunch at the gift shop), and the well-regarded Pinnacle Restaurant, with its sweeping views of Temecula Valley. It serves Mediterranean/American cuisine, including a killer Lobster Mac & Cheese. Carol’s Restaurant at Baily Winery is another good spot for “vine dining,” in the medieval-themed room by the fireplace, or outside on the Vineyard Patio.

The multi-million dollar Wilson Creek Winery and Vineyard is known as the “fun winery” — and one of the busiest — with a bustling tasting room, gift shop, picnic areas, and plenty of room for special events. Here you can taste the popular almond-flavored “champagne,” a sparkling wine, and White Cabernet Sauvignon in a distinctive blue bottle. Its Creekside Grille pairs wine with seasonal cuisine. There are popular “Sunset in the Vines” concerts during the summer.

Claudio Ponte, who owns Ponte Family Estate, has a simple philosophy when it comes to wine: “If you like it,” he says, “then it’s good wine.” The winery, built in the California Mission-style, offers tours and tastings, and al fresco dining at the Restaurant at Ponte, which specializes in casual California cooking with an Italian touch. The menu, based on local, sustainable produce, meat, fish, and fowl offers such fare as grapewood-fired pizzas, pasta puttanesca, grilled pork tenderloin with a cherry ginger sauce, and stone fruit trifle. Its 60-room boutique hotel, the Ponte Vineyard Inn, surrounded by vineyards, is scheduled to open in the spring of 2012. On October 2, Ponte’s Ninth Annual Grape Stomp Festival features competitions for adults and children, tractor rides, a dinner buffet, and dancing in the Vineyard Pavilion. Call for tickets. (951/694-8855)

Keyways is the valley’s only woman-owned-and-operated winery. Terri Delhamer was a real estate broker who came out to list the property for sale and ended up buying it instead. She worked with winemakers to tailor wines to women who prefer whites that are slightly fruitier and sweeter. The tasting room also has a feminine touch, offering jewelry and clothing, as well as wine. Keyways boasts “the best bathrooms in the valley,” with Brazilian onyx countertops, and hammered copper sinks and stalls, again, with women in mind.

Monte De Oro Winery has an impressive, Tuscan-style tasting room with high ceilings and chandeliers, and a veranda with a fountain and panoramic wine country views. A glass floor provides a unique peak at the barrel room below. Monte de Oro is owned by a consortium of 67 families from the U.S., England, and South Africa who share a taste for premium wines.

Europa Village, the newest winery, may eventually become one of the valley’s most ambitious, producing handcrafted wines in an Old World setting. It now has a charming French bistro-style tasting room and an Italian wine cave. When completed in a few years, it will have three wineries: the C’est La Vie Wine Chateau, featuring French varietals; Vienza for Italian wines; and Bolero Cellars for Spanish vintages. Plans also include restaurants, a hotel and spa, and estate homes with their own vineyards, providing country club living centered on grapes instead of golf courses. “We make wines that speak to a slower pace of life,” says Laura Rosenthal, tasting room manager.

The Temecula Creek Inn has 130 tidy guestrooms, three nine-hole golf courses, and, overlooking the first hole, the rustic Temet Grill decorated with Native American artifacts. At breakfast, not to be missed is the house-made wild game sausage, sweet potato hash, and poached eggs.
Old Town Temecula has dozens of shops and restaurants including the Public House, a favorite with locals, known for ample pours and amiable service. Have a root beer float at the Old Town Root Beer Company, stock up on olive oil and vinegars at the Temecula Olive Oil Company, and visit the Temecula Valley Museum.

Buy tickets for the 21st Annual Harvest Celebration Barrel Tasting Weekend from November 5-6 to
visit more than 30 wineries, with wine and food samplings at each stop. You can also explore the area on self-guided tours — the Temecula Valley Wine Growers Association suggests itineraries on its Web site — or consider booking a limo or bus if you’re traveling with a group. For a bird’s eye view of the valley, take a balloon ride over the vineyards. Yes, Dorothy, you’re definitely not in Kansas anymore. (www.temeculawines.org)    ANDREA NAVERSEN