For more than 100 years, the mint julep has been the official drink served at Churchill Downs where the Kentucky Derby is run each May. But until recently, I never cared much for juleps, though I did like the shiny silver cup. It came on too strong, all hot whiskey, cold ice, and a burst of mint that never seemed to fit.
My julep revelation occurred in downtown L.A. at a whiskey bar called Seven Grand. I ordered a Blackberry Julep that arrived capped in a mound of crushed ice to rival the tallest Del Mar Fair snow cone. The only thing to do was wait for the ice cap to melt and slowly sip as the sweet, caramelly bourbon softened and wrapped itself around the dark, jammy berries and fragrant mint. And that’s the whole idea. The wise bartender explained a good julep takes time. “This is a sipping drink. You’re supposed to drink it on the porch while you’re watching the sun set.”
According to the circa 1930 Savoy Cocktail Book, juleps have been made with gin, Madeira, and even claret wine, though a brown spirit similar to bourbon makes sense for a drink that hails from the South. A Georgia Julep is a fruity mix of equal parts peach and regular brandy, sugar, and mint, while a Southern Julep is the classic whiskey, mint, and sugar drink we all know. Blanca constructs a proper Mint Julep with Bulleit bourbon. But the scenic Waterfall Terrace at L’Auberge Del Mar seems the ideal spot to order a signature Woodford Reserve Bourbon Mint Julep and contemplate the ocean and sky as it mellows into minty, icy perfection. MARIA C. HUNT
