Ambitious with a voguish sensibility, Arterra Restaurant within the San Diego Marriott Del Mar offers a trendy and rewarding dining experience that will captivate any audience.
East Coast meets Southern California with a sleek and sexy dining room reminiscent of a softly lit supper club adjacent to a dynamic cocktail bar. A dazzling retro outside patio shows off a pool, private cabanas, and live entertainment.
Deriving inspiration from seasonal availability of ingredients and believing that the secret to a great dish is simplicity, executive chef Jason Maitland never overcomplicates food with what he feels are unnecessary components. “I only like to use three to four ingredients per plate and execute them all perfectly,” he says.
Tasting menus are very popular with the regulars and Maitland offers four-, five-, and seven-course tastings, allowing guests to experience a little bit of everything. He also offers “Head-to-Toe” tastings in which he serves the whole animal over several courses. “I like to provide this as a chef’s table-type offering in our Vintage Room,” he explains.
I suggest the Four Hour Braised Veal with oxtail tortellini paired with The Prisoner Zinfandel, 2007, Napa Valley. And don’t be intimated by the seared Beef Tongue with micro arugula. Paired with Pernand-Vergelesses Reserve, 2007, it’s no wonder it regularly sells out.
I never thought I would say this, but move over gnocchi, there are gnuddi in town! Made with sheep’s milk ricotta cheese and semolina, while subtly flavored with herbs and hand-rolled, these divine cheese balls had me thinking I was in my grandma’s house in Italy. To top it off, when wine director Jeff Rose and I agreed to pair it with Grilli Del Testamatta Toscana, 2006, I thought, “there’s no place like home.”
Light enough for the Jidori Chicken with fresh black truffles and pancetta-escarole, yet deep enough for the Natural Duroc Pork Chop with huckleberry compote, the Ramian Red Grenache of Linden Hills Vineyard, 2006, is superb. In addition, the not-so-traditional Fish Sticks are a major overhaul consisting of white anchovies dusted with cornstarch, coated in beer batter, and crispy-fried. Pair with Guido Porro, Dolcetto d’Alba Vigna l’Pari, 2005.
I felt all whimsical when pastry chef Chris Davies brought me all the goodies including his in-house bottled Honey Cream Soda and Root Beer all foamed up with vanilla ice cream, and the Mixed Berry Trifle with honey cake, candied almonds, and mascarpone mousse. Add Domaine Fontanel, Rivesaltes Ambre, Grenache Noir, 1997, and life is worth living. (858/369-6032, www.arterrarestaurant.com) MARIA DESIDERATA MONTANA
