Being a strong advocate for farmers’ markets and for sound and sustainable agriculture, it is truly refreshing to experience an eccentric and brilliant food statement in Whisknladle, a chic and sophisticated La Jolla restaurant.
Owner Arturo Kassel and executive chef/partner Ryan Johnston have created a lovely outdoor patio space with dangling light bulbs, wicker rattan, and leather couches in an upscale yet laid-back atmosphere. Even the sleek and stylish all-white ceramic bar offers nature’s flavors reflected in specialty cocktails infused with flavors of lavender, blood oranges, and cilantro.
The menu is based on locally grown organic produce from La Milpa and Chino Farms, setting the standard for mindful cooking and sensible eating. “This time we’re cooking for ourselves — take it or leave it, love it or hate it,” says Kassel. “Food and wine are at their best as a shared experience. It also allows people to try many different dishes rather than having to commit to just one or two. We want our guests to create their own tasting menu and graze!”
I spent an unforgettable evening savoring meats cured onsite including capicola, prosciutto, spicy soppresetta, homemade sausage, and Spanish-style chorizo, as well as homemade mozzarella and ricotta cheeses, hand-rolled pastas, olive tapénade, breads, and sorbets. “Our goal is to produce everything in-house. We even grind our own meat including the cheeks and snout — we don’t believe in waste,” says Kassel. “I like to take people one foot out of their comfort zone and not force them, but try to get them to dine our way!”
Whether you go for the organic Niman Ranch ground meat patty consisting of sheep, goat, and cow, grilled and topped with four different artisan cheeses, crispy bacon, sautéed Temecula onions, and a fried egg inside a homemade burger bun or the Roasted Bone Marrow (A.K.A. poor man’s caviar) with capers, parsley, and preserved Meyer lemon, you will not be disappointed.
Fresh from the shellfish kingdom, the soft Soft Shell Crab proves utterly irresistible with its tempura-fried Asian twist. The texture of the tempura batter is just thick enough to coat the crab with a side of creamy mint cilantro vinaigrette for dipping. Additional flavorsome fare includes Mussels from Carlsbad Aqua Farms in white wine, garlic, and shallots with a side of crispy fries, Seared Maine Scallops with fennel and risotto, and Tuna Carpaccio with avocado, oregano, and chiles.
The mere mention of strawberry shortcake for dessert and my decision is made. A petite shortcake dripped with sweetly macerated strawberries and whipped cream —straightforward, simple, natural, and never out of fashion! (858/551-7575, www.whisknladle.com) MARIA DESIDERATA MONTANA
