Savoring beautiful, modern, and inventive Japanese cuisine in a dimly lit and zen-like setting is my idea of romance and tranquility. 

 

Nozomi offers three different Japanese dining experiences in one building. Standing at the entrance, I was tempted by the Yokohama room with its ocean theme and serene indoor turtle pond, as well as the peaceful setting of the Osaka room on the main level. However, it was the sound of raindrops that lured me up a flight of stairs into the Tokyo room, where the humble Japanese décor and the sound of a large water structure against the back wall evoked a sense of place in a far away land.  

 

Feeling calm and comfortable in our surroundings, my husband and I decided to start our evening dining journey by sipping on Gyokuro tea with gold flakes, a symbol of prosperity, while browsing through an infinite menu of soups and salads, specialty tapas from land and sea, and larger entrées. The impressive selection of nigiri sushi, hand rolls, and sashimi beckoned us to savor a melt-in-your-mouth sashimi sampler of tuna, yellowtail, and salmon.

 

Trained at San Diego’s Sushi Ota and recruited by Nozomi owner Derek Choi, executive chef Ken Lee graces the restaurant with his presence. Extraordinary rolls include the Unagi Bonsai with spicy tuna, crab, cream cheese, and avocado, deep fried and topped with a special spicy sauce; and the King Kong with shrimp tempura, asparagus, cucumber, scallions, and more of that spicy sauce, topped with salmon and avocado over a ginger avocado sauce.

 

The handmade steamed Mushroom and Leek Dumplings that arrived in a truffle and miso broth is so delicious, it seemed fit for the gods only. But it doesn’t end there; the Kobe Tataki that consists of thinly sliced Kobe beef, seared and layered atop julienned cucumber wedges, then drizzled with garlic oil and ponzu, exceeded all of my expectations.

 

Enjoy a lunch date at Nozomi where specials including salmon teriyaki, spicy pork, or assorted tempura are served in bento boxes with rice, soup, salad, and gyoza. Happy hour is another great opportunity to sample assorted fare at a reasonable price.  

 

Sake aficionados will love the beautiful selection of rare and seasonal sakes served properly hot, warm, or cold, including Kurosawa, Masumi Arabashiri, and Yumedono, not to mention the fabulous selection of Japanese beer, wine, and specialty martinis.

 

Desserts set the bar with the mighty Mt. Fuji white cake with a generous heap of Kona coffee ice cream, neatly covered with a burnt meringue. Of equal billing is the gigantic Dulce De Leche Tempura Ice Cream — kick off your shoes and stay awhile. (760/729-7877, www.nozomicarlsbad.com)   MARIA DESIDERATA MONTANA