Executive chef Bryan Graham of Sbicca in Del Mar has taken surf and turf to a whole new level with all-natural Thunder Ridge New York strips cut into six-ounce blocks paired with three sweet butter-poached U12 Mexican shrimp, garlic wilted spinach, asparagus, and a citrusy house-made Worcestershire sauce. “We are trying to keep everything natural,” says Graham. “In addition, we like to offer gluten-free options since many of our guests are moving toward that.” A new spring/summer menu includes pan-roasted Alaskan Halibut with green pea Parmesan risotto and lemongrass vinaigrette, Grilled Line Caught Swordfish with grilled tomato coulis and fresh basil pesto, and Vegetable White Bean Pastiche. (858/481-1001, www.sbiccabistro.com)   MARIA DESIDERATA MONTANA