The scallops — plump and melt-in-your-mouth tender — were flavored with the juice of satsuma oranges. I savored the first bite and then dove in for another.
“How could I have not known about this place before?” I wondered. “I’ve never had such a great meal in Palm Springs.”
“This place” is Copley’s on Palm Canyon, and, in addition to offering amazing food, it also serves up historic ambience. Built in 1947, it was once Cary Grant’s guesthouse.
Ahi tacos are the most popular appetizer, but I opted for the roasted pumpkin and goat cheese ravioli, which was nothing short of sublime.
Chef/owner Andrew Copley’s background includes The Ritz, London; the QEII; the Grand Hyatt Melbourne; the Park Hyatt Sydney; and the Ritz Carlton Maui. I’m sure they were all sad to see him leave, but, with family in Palm Springs, he’s enjoying life immensely and doing his best work. Other specialties include rack of lamb and house-made ice cream flavored with basil, peanut butter, or cinnamon. (www.copleyspalmsprings.com)
Like most San Diegans, I’m no stranger to the Palm Springs region, but on a recent visit, I made several exciting discoveries. While Copley’s was the best new food I found, the most exciting touring took place at the San Gorgonio Wind Park. I’d often driven past the whirling towers that are visible from I-10, but had no idea I could tour the area.
Guide Ken Huskey formerly worked with Southern California Edison, and he seemingly knows just about everything when it comes to wind power. Huskey explained that the San Gorgonio Pass, lying between Mt. San Gorgonio and Mt. San Jacinto and only 90 miles from the Pacific Ocean, is the best place in the U.S. to harness wind power.
The park consists of 41 wind farms, some owned by foreign companies taking advantage of the outstanding conditions, that happen to be right on top of the San Andreas Fault. The first turbine was installed here in 1926, but General Patton ordered it removed and used the metal for the war effort. Today 3,200 turbines create 650 megawatts of electricity that serve 200,000 Southern California homes.
We learned about the various kinds of turbines, the potential for the creation of green-collar jobs, and the role of wind gypsies — people who keep the blades clean and running efficiently. Because of the Migratory Bird Treaty, flashing red lights were installed on the turbines. The desert and mountains views from the wind park helped to make this one of the best tours I’ve ever taken — anywhere. (www.thebestofthebesttours.com)
I was also blown away, but in a different sense of the word, by the Palm Springs Art Museum. Formerly the PS Desert Museum, the light and bright space is now a sparkling repository of art.
“Our affluent donors kept leaving us their collections and it just made sense to put them on display,” Bob Bogard, director of marketing, explained to me. “Some of the natural history exhibits went to The Living Desert and others were dispersed to local schools.”
The result is a world-class museum with an eclectic collection — ranging from Western art donated by actor George Montgomery to an original Brillo Box Dress sculpted by Andy Warhol. Other celebrity donors include Frank Sinatra and William Holden.
On my next trip to the desert, I plan to spend all day at this museum, including eating lunch in the café, where the walls are lined with black-and-white “glam pix” of 1930s and ’40s movie stars. (www.psmuseum.org)
If I stay overnight, it will be at Hotel Zoso, a hip spot located on four acres in the heart of downtown Palm Springs. Formerly the Marquis, it reopened about three years ago and is now known for its great pool area, dog-friendly environment, and creative package deals.
Their ZRomance Package includes a horse-drawn carriage ride, a couple’s massage in a poolside cabana, and the option of a bed covered in rose petals. The ZBed & Benz package includes accommodation in the 1,000-square foot Equinox Suite and the use of a Bentley Continental GTC convertible, a Mercedes SL550, or the choice of other boys’ toys such as Corvettes, Boxsters, or BMW 650s. (www.hotelzoso.com)
Hotel Zoso has a restaurant, but I feel quite sure that when it’s time for dinner the siren call of plump scallops will lure me back to Cary Grant’s guesthouse. ELIZABETH HANSEN



