Size does matter. It might be possible to have a great holiday wandering randomly around tiny Switzerland, but expansive South Africa — with its big game, gorgeous gardens, great wine, and fine dining — requires a well-planned itinerary. In addition, because this is a country with high unemployment, travel safety requires some forethought. Our most recent trip to South Africa was short — only ten days — but perfectly sweet. Here’s how we spent our time.

Day One — In the past, concerns about crime had caused me to avoid Johannesburg. This time I opted for caution: home away from home would be the Hyatt Regency Johannesburg, located in the leafy suburb of Rosebank — best known for shopping malls and art galleries. Here, onsite services include an Avis Point-to-Point office, which provides guests with chauffeured cars that are safer than local taxis. Hendrick, our driver du jour, whisked us out of the airport and onto the freeway. Jacaranda tress, in full bloom as they are every fall, reminded me of San Diego. However, with six million residents and the largest economy in sub-Saharan Africa, Jo’berg exudes Big Apple bravado. (www.johannesburg.regency.hyatt.com)

Day Two — The state-of-the-art Apartheid Museum is a somber place that tells a horrible story, but it’s easy to understand why it’s Johannesburg’s top attraction. The exhibits — especially those dealing with political executions and forced removals — evoke strong emotion, but also foster understanding. Later, we drove through Soweto and toured Regina Mundi Church, where damage done by police in the 1976 riots is still evident. The Hector Pieterson Museum bears the name of a 13-year-old boy shot by police and includes excellent videos and photos of the student uprising.

The mood was more cheerful at the modest Sakhumzi Restaurant in Soweto, where our delicious lunch included ethnic specialties: samp (corn kernels) and beans, stewed mutton, and grits-like pap. The restaurant is next to Bishop Tutu’s house and close to Nelson Mandela’s former home, which is open to the public. John Fourie guided our all-day private tour. (www.sakhumzi.co.za, www.adventours.co.za)

These days, Mandela often stays at the Saxon Hotel in Sandhurst. This 24-room boutique property is also a favorite of Brad Pitt and Oprah Winfrey. We were impressed with the garden setting, spa, and myriad African baskets, wooden masks, and tribal handicrafts on display. Dinners feature game meat and seafood — my pan-fried mullet with crushed chickpeas and lentils was excellent. (www.thesaxon.com)

Day Three — The Saxon provided a brief intro to South African wines, but our Cape Town digs offered a full-blown tutorial. The Steenberg Hotel lies in the Constantia Valley, the Cape’s oldest wine region, 20 minutes outside the city. Here, low mountains wrap around two sides of the property, sheltering vineyards, an award-winning winery, an 18-hole golf course, and 24 luxurious rooms and suites in picturesque Cape Dutch-style buildings. Steenberg farm was established in 1682; the manor house, barn, and wine cellar are designated national monuments. Our tasting took place in Cigar Bar under a mural of the historic estate. Steenberg cultivars include their flagship Sauvignon Blanc, as well as Chardonnay, Semillon, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, and Nebbiolo. Catharina, the winery’s distinctive red blend, is widely recognized for its elegant, old-world French style. During dinner, I observed that “Cath” had great legs, and I noticed both spice and licorice on my palate. These flavors complemented my plum tomato tart with basil and olive tapenade and the Kalk Bay fillet set on pea and Norwegian salmon risotto. My husband enjoyed Steenberg 1682 Sparkling Wine with his char-grilled calamari and seared scallops. (www.steenberghotel.com)

Day Four — Our Cape Town sightseeing included a stroll along the scenic Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, where a high-energy African dance troupe shared the spotlight with a mellow “old guys” jazz band. We then headed south through Table Mountain National Park to the dramatic Cape of Good Hope. Along the way, we spotted Southern Right Whales and paused at Boulders Beach to visit African penguins. At the Cape, waves crash on the southwesternmost point of the African continent, while antelope, ostrich, and zebra graze nearby. The highlight of the day was Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens, where I ran our guide and my husband off their legs trying to see every gorgeous protea and the enormous collection of succulents. 

We returned to the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront for dinner and snagged a good table at the elegant Cape Grace Hotel. Because it is the top-ranked restaurant in South Africa, I expected Onewaterfront to be stuffy. Au contraire. Our congenial waiter brought us several “Afro sushi” samples and adapted dishes to our tastes. My dorado was delicious, and Richard enjoyed the blesbok (antelope) served on bok choy and topped with raspberries and blueberries. (www.capegrace.com)

Day Five — The Steenberg’s Sunday Jazz Buffet Luncheon is a gracious affair attended by hotel guests and affluent Capetonians. Shaded patio tables overlook a lush green lawn punctuated by colorful metal sculptures and long hedges of English lavender and white roses. Late afternoon spa treatments were the perfect ending to an indulgent day. 

Day Six — Our stop in Durban was brief, just long enough to enjoy the Royal Hotel (think US Grant meets Hotel Del) and join local friends for dinner at Cargo Hold in uShaka Marine World. Tables here are set around a shark tank and the meals — I had kingklip, a local fish — are very good.

Day Seven — The driver taking us to Phinda Private Game Reserve followed the coast north of Durban past sugar cane farms and fields of pineapples. The moment I walked into Phinda Rock Lodge, the words “safari chic” appeared before my mind’s eye in bold letters. Here, six luxurious suites offer king beds, separate sitting/bar areas, bathtubs with scenic views, two showers (inside and out), and private vanishing edge plunge pools overlooking lush woodland. (www.phinda.com)

On our first game drive we saw giraffes, warthogs, monkeys, zebra, and a cheetah with her four cubs. I was surprised how close the safari vehicles could get — at one point I saw a yet-unborn impala kicking inside his mom.

After drinks in front of the fireplace, dinner was served at an elegant, candlelit table. The meal began with the best mushroom soup I have ever tasted.

Day Eight — The wake-up call came at 5am and, after a quick cuppa, we took off for the bush. Following overnight rain, roaring frogs filled the air with a sound akin to the start of the Indy 500. At 8:30, guide Dumi stopped and set up tea and coffee service — all very Out of Africa. He even offered Amarula, a liqueur made from a South African fruit. Later we passed a herd of fierce-looking cape buffalo, and then he spotted three lions. Suddenly, I felt very vulnerable in the open vehicle.

Back at the lodge, I had barely finished breakfast when lunch was served; then, of course, there was afternoon tea. On the evening game drive Dumi really wanted us to see a rhino and drove around in an area they like until he found a large male. “They rely on their sense of smell because they don’t see very well,” he said — right before the big fella charged us. A short time later, Dumi set up for sundowners in the bush, and I was the first to belly up to the bar.

Day Nine — The eco-tourism company CC Africa operates six lodges in Phinda Private Game Reserve. Zuka and Getty have four bedrooms for small family groups. Forest and Mountain have 16 and 25 suites respectively. Vlei, like Rock, has six suites. All offer stylish surroundings, gourmet cuisine, good wine lists, high thread count linens, A/C, attentive service, and quality wildlife experiences. Our suite at Vlei Lodge had floor-to-ceiling wraparound glass doors and windows. I loved being in the bush and kept a watch for elephants that sometimes drink from the private plunge pools. On a game drive here, we saw a big male lion with a black main. His roar was straight out of The Lion King. During the night, a lightening show allowed us to see impala grazing in the meadow beyond our pool. In the morning, white butterflies fluttered outside our suite. 

Day Ten — The charter flight from Phinda to Johannesburg served as a reminder that South Africa is a huge country with a wide variety of terrain. In only ten days, we’d experienced a world-class city, wandered through picturesque vineyards, stood at the tip of the continent, and dodged a charging rhino. All proof, once again, that size does matter.   ELIZABETH HANSEN