Costa Rica takes nature seriously. The country is a world leader in biodiversity and a trendsetter in sustainable tourism. With tropical beaches kissed by the Pacific and Caribbean, mountains cloaked in clouds, and rainforests teeming with exotic wildlife, it draws visitors from around the globe.

 

My first destination was Santa Teresa, a rambling, casual hamlet long popular with surfers and expats, located on a rugged stretch of the southern Nicoya Peninsula where coastal hills tumble into the Pacific. Known for big waves, broad sandy beaches, and dramatic sunsets, this out-of-the-way spot has recently become a hot spot with celebs including Gisele Bundchen and Leonardo DiCaprio.

 

Tucked away at the end of the road into town, I discovered a private villa with no name on the gate. Here, at Latitude 10 resort, winner of Travel + Leisure’s 2010 Global Vision Award for environmental leadership, luxurious open-air casitas surrounded by trees serve as the villa’s guesthouses. Close to nature is an understatement. The cottage’s windows have no glass, only almond-wood blinds that let in breezes, the murmurs of the tropical forest, and views of the ocean. Spacious bathrooms blend with the sky and trees while preserving privacy. Sitting on the veranda and taking in the sights and sounds of the jungle was meditative.

 

At night I drifted into a sweet, sound sleep. The next morning, the calls of a troop of howler monkeys moving through the treetops awoke me. Their wild yells induced a sense of wonder and euphoria, a kinship with nature the likes of which I have not felt before. Although these adorable primates were swaying on the trees outside, it sounded like they were right in the room with me.

 

Days were spent swimming, snorkeling, hiking, horseback riding, and doing yoga. For an aperitif and tasty local fish while taking in a stunning sunset, Papaya, in the Moana Lodge, and Brisas Del Mar Restaurant are prime spots, located high on the hillside above the ocean.

 

One evening I strolled into the center of town past tapas bars, eateries, yoga studios, and shops selling surfboards, swimsuits, and all kinds of water paraphernalia. I stumbled into an art opening, where a Tibetan man clad in all white was playing a didgeridoo, the Australian aboriginal horn. The crowd was an eclectic mix of artists, creative business types, surfer dudes and gals of all ages, and Santa Teresa aficionados.

 

Everyone spoke English. The gallery owner was an Americano who hailed from San Diego. Some in the crowd were on vacation, but most lived in town, coming to Costa Rica from such diverse places as California, Utah, Florida, Canada, Germany, Italy, the Netherlands, and Israel. They all had the same story: “We came and liked it so much, we decided to move here.”

 

Like him or not (perhaps not now), I soon discovered that anyone I spoke to had six or fewer degrees of separation from Mel Gibson. I met his architect, real estate agent, and construction site manager, Mango Jane, who is also the local newspaper editor and painted Gibson’s house. I also met Luis Posada, the famed artist who designed the 5,000 colones bank note and the artwork hanging in the actor’s villa.

 

My next destination, Xandari by the Pacific, was a tropical paradise. This gorgeous resort at Playa Esterillos offers elegant, brightly colored villas with private terraces and gardens, and two swimming pools. The unique design by California owner/architect Sherril Broudy features striking original mosaics and artwork by his artist wife.

 

There, a palm-roofed dining pavilion faces the beach. The menu features fresh fish, including superb ceviche and tuna, and organic fruits and vegetables from the resort’s gardens. A long walk along the palm-fringed beach was followed by a swim and a massage at the spa.

 

Then it was time to sway in the hammock slung between the trees. I sipped a margarita at sunset and have never seen so many hues of yellow, orange, violet, and green. As I watched the moon cast a translucent, otherworldly sheen on the wet sand, I thought — this is the life. (www.tourism.co.cr)   MAXINE ALBERT